Saturday, May 11, 2024

Peru: Day 8 - Lima

 This was our final day in Peru and it was completely open! Again, I don't think we looked at our itinerary closely to see that we had nothing planned and our flight home wasn't until late in the evening. I found a self-guided walking tour through Lima so we decided to give it a try. We walked along the beach and ate crepes by the ocean, through a park full of mosaics, through an outdoor mall, saw cats roaming freely through Roosevelt Park, art and jewelry vendors set up along the sidewalks, stopping for drinks and snacks at random spots whenever we felt like it. We passed over a 'lucky bridge' and sat on benches in parks, just soaking in the last of Peru.



Our last restaurant from the napkin we went to was Panchita. It was over an hour wait but we had time! Max had his last Pisco Sour (Cathedral-sized!) and we had a delightful meal with all the traditional foods like Peruvian corn, breads, and potatoes.


We finally headed to the airport for the long journey home. I cannot put into words how much this trip meant to me. We hadn't taken a trip just the two of us since our honeymoon! It was amazing to be together and witness the raw beauty of Peru. I cannot wait to return one day and do it all again 💓

Friday, May 10, 2024

Peru: Day 7 - Ica & Huacachina

 Another instance where we didn't look at the itinerary closely: we had a 5 hour journey to Huacachina. I think Max and I really both were dreading this long day-trip. We were informed that we'd make a stop for lunch and then a stop in a town called Ica to see yet another museum. We were getting quite tired at this point -- all the early mornings, hectic day-trips, transportation, and late evenings. If Max had said 'let's cancel it', I probably would have said 'sure.' 

Our first stop was a Pisco Tasting Tour. It was a pretty small establishment and we had about 8 other people on our tour. We tasted several piscos and learned for the first time how to drink high-proof alcohol without the burn. The method is about swishing the liquid, swallowing, breathing in through your nose, and then our through your mouth... all very slowly and deliberately. It's the sting of oxygen that hits the alcohol that makes the burning sensation that actually detracts from the tasting of the spirit. A very interesting technique that Max and I both took from Peru and still use when doing tastings!

Maybe it was because we went in with such low expectations, but Ica was truly a diamond in the rough. We went into what appeared to be a quaint museum ended up being one of the highlights of our trip! Our guide was from Ica and had extensive knowledge about the culture and history of the Ica tribe. Max was engaged from the beginning and our guide could answer every question Max threw his way. It was amazing to see so many intact artifacts, from textiles to pottery, to human mummies, that had all been delicately preserved by the dryness of the land. I am so glad we were able to see this museum that we would have otherwise skipped over. 


Now time for the sand dunes. We entered into the oasis in the desert. A watering hole, you could say, that's been pretty commercialized. No one really lives in Huacachina but there are many shops and restaurants that surround the lake that's in the middle of the drylands of Southwest Peru. We got into a dune buggy where a professional drove us over endless mountains of sand and eventually, we got to slide down a few with sandboards. The hot sun, sand, and speed kept me smiling the entire time! 



Five hours back, we dozed off when we could. Max was exhausted; I was hungry. I ordered pizza which Max sort of scoffed at (pizza in Peru?) but it turned out to be delicious 😆 Thank goodness we could sleep in tomorrow because it had been a VERY long day. We went to bed happy and bellies full. Last day is tomorrow ..

Thursday, May 9, 2024

Peru: Day 6 - Cusco & Lima

 We finally got to sleep in! We had a quick hotel breakfast and then Damny picked us up for our final morning in Cusco. We were taken to Sacsayhuaman Archaeological Park and learned a lot about the known and unknown history of the fortress that was built there. 


We went back to the city centre and went inside the church that we had passed many time but this time entered. It was very different than what I expected. Lots of Peruvian art that had been heavily influenced by the Spanish during their crusading and missionary work, imposing Catholicism in a way that the Peruvans could understand. This led to a lot of different styles of art, sculptures, interpretations and ideals about Christianity and also modern art and culture that influenced the spiritual sector of Peru and beyond!

We had time for a quick lunch before we were taken to the airport to fly to Lima. We arrived late in the evening and referenced our airplane napkin again to walk to a place called Punto Azul. The portions were huge and with drinks to match (Pisco Sour for Max)! Another lovely evening, cool and dry just walking around the capital of Peru. 




Wednesday, May 8, 2024

Peru: Day 5 - Vinicunca Mountain

 Another early morning, we left our hotel and picked up another couple that was also going to hike Rainbow Mountain. We stopped for a quick breakfast and then arrived at 7am at the base of the mountain. It was a much shorter hike than yesterday but a sharper ascent and elevation. The peak is at 16,522 ft above sea level. Damny smirked when he saw visitors riding horses and motorcycles to the top and told us we were NOT going to need that kind of assistance. We will take it one step at a time. I was definitely challenged on this trail, taking many breaks getting up to the top. It was amazing to see the colors and the valley below! 

I'm glad we did this hike, as it's one of the most iconic places to visit in Peru. Had we not done The 7 Lakes of Afdfdsajf, I probably would have been more impressed. But after the tranquil and magical hike from the day before, this place was nothing in comparison. Our descent was much easier but we saw the swarms of tourists coming up the mountain (walking, riding horses/motorcycles) and we were grateful to have come early in the morning when we did. We stopped at the same place for lunch on the return and got back to Cusco around 3pm. We went over to a local museum and wandered around the town square. We made a stop at a convenience store to get some local beers and snacks. We were floored at how little our total came to, for all the Gatorade, Coke, two beers, chex mix, and candy, it was only $7.



We had reservations that evening at Chicha por Gaston Acurio. Abby and Nate had recommended this prix fix menu and it did not disappoint! It had seven courses, two of which were desserts. Pisco Sour aperitif plus three wine pairings. Everything was delicious and I can say that I did, in fact, try the guinea pig, in the form of a delicate Pekin-style guinea pig taco. Like that, it was quite delicious!

Tuesday, May 7, 2024

Peru: Day 4 - Seven Lakes of Ausangate

 Early car ride with Damni to the 7 Lakes of Ausangate. We arrived and had a small breakfast with Damni and our driver. We were again the only two on this journey for this hike. As I said before, we did this with a travel agent and so sometimes I wasn't always very aware of how much distance it was to get to one of these destinations OR how long these hikes and journeys would take... In this case, it was probably better we didn't know. 

Starting at 14,000 ft elevation, we hiked with Damni over 15 km. He only told us these facts when we were over halfway finished. We saw seven stunning glacier-fed lakes, surrounded by rolling hills opposite the Vilcanota Mountain Range. It was difficult with the altitude, with Max and I battling headaches and some dizziness at different points. Damni was cautious and allowed lots of breaks, hydration,and also something he called an elixer, which basically you huffed and it opened up your airways. It was a strange feeling but we both used this elixir a few times and it shook off the dizziness, if not for a while.



It was an amazing hike. I don't think Max or I were adequately prepared for what lay ahead. The beauty, the spiritualness, the tranquility. We had deep conversations with Damni about his life growing up on a coffee farm, and being raised by his grandparents. We took a moment of silence at one small magical 'lake' where we cast our wishes and prayers to God. It was definitely one of the most spiritual moments being there with Max and experiencing this incredible place together. 

We were exhausted on the way home and slept a lot of the loopy, curving and bumpy drive home. We looked at our airplane napkin to find a place to eat and ended up at PachaPapa. We had the most delightful abuelita serving our table. She didn't speak any English but had no trouble at steering Max away from what he intended to order, to order something completely different off the menu 😅 It was a fantastic meal and an entire bottle of red wine. The night was cool and we sat out on the patio while someone played music in the corner. It was the best way to end our 4th day in Peru :)



Monday, May 6, 2024

Peru: Day 3 - Machu Piccu & Cusco

 At first, I didn't see the point in seeing Machu Picchu twice. But as we ascend into the low clouds, I see why they plan a second day, just in case. Our sunny day yesterday was an anomaly. Today was so foggy we could hardly see anything, and Circuit 2 provides even a higher vantage point to see the grounds. 

Thankfully after an hour, the fog lifted and we were able to enjoy a different view of this magnificent World Wonder.

We completed our circuit, and we took the bus back into Machu Picchu Pueblo. We had lunch in a hole-in-the-wall spot and it was one of my favorite meals we had so far! 

We had quite a bit of time to kill before our train ride back to Ollantaytambo, so we walked over a mile to this Butterfly Garden and paid $5 each to listen to a presentation entirely in Spanish. With context clues, I was pleased with how much Max and I understood the tour. 

When then found a rooftop bar to have a Pisco Sour and relax for a while before our train arrived.

It was a long journey back by train and then by car, but we finally made it to bed. We were going to get up SUPER early, AGAIN! So we fell into bed after a subpar hotel dinner and fell promptly asleep.

Sunday, May 5, 2024

Peru: Day 2 - Machu Piccu & Aguas Calientes

 Bright and early, we wake! Today is day 1 of 2 that we will get to ascend into Machu Piccu. We hastily eat breakfast at the hotel and pack only our backpacks for the two-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes. From there, we are met with another guide who takes our bags to our hotel for us and walks us to the bus that we will take to get into Machu Piccu.

There is something so surreal about seeing this place in person. 

We were on a private tour on Circuit 1 of Machu Piccu, which apparently is the best circuit. Tomorrow we had Circuit 2, which our guide said is the second best! So thank you travel agent 😀

It actually got so hot here during the day that I got sunburned. 

We then went back into the town of Aguas Calientes or also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo. We found a spot for lunch and Max indulges in his first (of many!) Pisco Sour of the trip.

Next, we had a subpar dinner at our hotel. Lesson learned! The food here is SO good, so skip the hotel. 

Super early morning tomorrow, so we turned in to try to get some sleep. Our tickets for Machu Picchu were for 8am, and our guide said to be at the bus station at least 90 minutes early. Night night xx

Saturday, May 4, 2024

Peru: Day 1 - Sacred Valley & Ollantaytambo

 Max and I want to see all 7 Manmade Wonders of the World by 2031 (our ten-year wedding anniversary). We have seen the Coloseaum together in 2022 and were contemplating what trip we'd like to do next. We decided to see Machu Piccu! 

Thus this trip to Peru was born. Compared to France, this was haphazard. Max had been working nights for almost a year. I started a new job when we decided to do this trip. We bought our plane tickets and promptly forgot about the entire thing until about 6 weeks before the trip. We both LOVE to plan and research. We conceded that neither of us had the time to do this trip justice. Thank goodness Tina had a travel agent in her back pocket! 

So off we go on a new adventure with a fully-planned itinerary! Something new for us, indeed! I could get used to the private transportation :)

The first stop was Sacred Valley! We stopped at a llama and alpaca sanctuary. We learned about the protected species called vicuñas and how they sheered these gentle creatures to make clothing. I did buy a shawl here because I did not realize how chilly it was at this altitude of 9,000 ft above sea level. I literally used it every day of the trip until we got to Lima. 

We made a few little stops for views.

We had lunch by the Urubamba River. Damni, our guide, cautioned us to not eat too much or drink alcohol because he said it can be hard for our stomachs to digest at this altitude. Something I had not previously thought of! Max broke the alcohol rule right away 😂

And finally, we arrived at Ollantaytambo! This is when I realized how winded I was with the altitude. It was amazing to climb and learn the history of this place from, Damni -- who by the way, would be our guide for today and three days in Cusco. 

We made another small stop at a Museo Vivo, which was fine, but something we wouldn't have chosen to do. So part of the 'cons' of a fully-planned trip by someone other than ourselves.

We stayed at a splendid Sonesta and had dinner onsite. It was delicious and we both this time broke the alcohol rule hehe.

Buenas noches xx

Mexico City: Day 3

 At 9am, we met up with our guide and four other tourists for our Biking Food Tour. I know we have done a lot of food tours and one fabulous...